SonexBuilders.net

Thanks everyone for the excellent advice and feedback. I've got the tools on order and or will pick up locally this weekend, i.e. the rivet squeezer(s).

Additional questions, once all holes are drilled, deburred, and surface cleaned; should I dimple before or after applying the self etching primer I plan on using for corrosion prevention? I recall some videos on Zodiac building where the builder used self etching primer via rattle can along the inside rivet holes, looked like a pretty simple method. Bending the hockey sticks looks pretty intimidating, so I'm planning on using a local machine shop for that.

After staring at the plans all week, i'm hoping to start some initial assembly this weekend.

Thanks again, I look forward to proving myself as a worthy member of the Waiex community.

nosky2high wrote:Additional questions, once all holes are drilled, deburred, and surface cleaned; should I dimple before or after applying the self etching primer

You want to apply the primer after dimpling. Otherwise the dimple dies /squeezers are just going to scuff it up and as the metal stretches in the dimpling process it'll create areas with no primer covering.

Also: I started out using rattle-can primer and I can attest that it is VERY EASY to over-apply. The temptation is strong to really want to give everything a solid coating; but you just need a very very light spray - don't overdo it! Too much primer means you'll wind up with heavy parts and possibly loose rivets/bolts later (as thick paint slowly squeezes out of the joints).

Good luck,

--Noel
P.S. Here's a checklist of my typical build process:

1. Shape parts per plans
2. Drill pilot holes
3. Use hand-files and/or a Scotchbrite Belt (or wheel) to polish all edges and soften/round-off sharp corners
4. Align parts, mark/drill pilot-holes (clamping and cleco'ing as-appropriate)
5. Up-drill parts (#32 or #31 if holes will be dimpled)
6. Disassemble
7. Debur both sides of all holes
8. Use scotchbrite hand-pads of various grades to smooth out any dings or scratches in the surface of the parts
9. Continue to use scotchbrite pads to lightly scuff all part surfaces (improves primer adhesion)
10. Clean part with a zero-residue cleaner to remove dirt, labels, skin-oils, metal dust from sanding/polishing, etc
11. Prime parts LIGHTLY
12. Reassemble with Clecos
13. Rivet together.

Small and lightweight minimizes hand and arm fatigue, which reduces`errors. A good soft / slow start trigger on drills is also important.

Above all else, remember that most folks spend more hours building their planes than flying them. Invest in whatever tools and work space accommodations make building enjoyable for you.

Enjoy the build.

David A.

Okay, Started out by assembling the stabilator substructure to get familiar with the parts and plans.

Looks like pilot drilling the forward spars "hockey sticks" to the forward spar channel is the first order of business.

Two issues came up in the initial assembly of the substructure.

1. The predriled -06 clip did not match up to the predriled leading edge rib, do I just center up as best as I can and drill them together in the drill press?

2. The tip rib -08 didn't slide over the forward stabilator spar -02, looks like a simple trim of the spar flange will do, just making sure that it's normal to be trimming "match holed" parts this early in the project.

I'm sure I'll have lots more questions. Be patient, I learn quick.

Thanks,
Anthony

Anthony

Welcome to the group!

I am sure you will get valuable insights and advice in response to your question. I would also urge you to contact the factory technical support team.


Robbie Culver
Sonex 1517
Chicagoland
N1517S

Anthony,
I have seen a few parts where the matched holes missed a little bit. I can't remember if the forward rib to the clip was one of them. I did not mention it in the first page of my build thread. The plans show the flange is trimmed away on the spar. If it is not trimmed enough I would trim it more. It is not uncommon to have to trim parts though it is the minority by far.

It is always good to email Kerry (tech@sonexaircraft.com) for confirmation. Also if there are any issues with fit of your parts, carefully measure them against the plans. If you read the first two pages of my thread you will note I had an issue with one of the rib pairs being too long.

I'll echo the others' comments about contacting Tech Support. But sometimes it also helps to see pics of someone else's parts & assembly. In case that helps, here are mine. I've got almost 900 photos in this album now, showing most parts of the Empennage & Wings:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1039641523 ... redirect=1

The photos are in reverse chronological order, so the tail pics are about 20 pics from the very bottom of the album (where the captions start). Enjoy,

--Noel
P.S. My kit was purchased before the matched-hole parts were offered. The album may help illustrate how big a time-savings that is.
[Not that I'm jealous or... actually yeah, I am!] :lol:

nosky2high wrote:Okay, Started out by assembling the stabilator substructure to get familiar with the parts and plans.

Looks like pilot drilling the forward spars "hockey sticks" to the forward spar channel is the first order of business.

Two issues came up in the initial assembly of the substructure.

1. The predriled -06 clip did not match up to the predriled leading edge rib, do I just center up as best as I can and drill them together in the drill press?

2. The tip rib -08 didn't slide over the forward stabilator spar -02, looks like a simple trim of the spar flange will do, just making sure that it's normal to be trimming "match holed" parts this early in the project.

I'm sure I'll have lots more questions. Be patient, I learn quick.

Thanks,
Anthony

Here's the response from tech support; "The misfit between -06 and the leading edge rib was recently discovered. The corrective action is simple, grind the edges off the -06 clip as needed and
drill new holes inset 1/4" from the existing holes.

On the interference issue, you can file material off to eliminate that minor interference, or adjust the flute in the rib. Little adjustments like that are not uncommon."

Back to work :-)

Okay, I ordered some 2' x 2' 6061T6 (0.025 and 0.032)from Spruce to test various drill sizes to various dimple dies to their fit with the sonex supplied flush rivets.

The plan is to drill holes with #30, #31, and #32 bits through the two sheets of 6061 then test each group with the sonex dimple dies, the Avery spring dies, and the spruce supplied dies.

Somewhere in the nine possible combinations I hope to find the best fit and flush rivet appearance.

Advice is always appreciated. Thanks.
Anthony

Sounds like a plan! However if you'd like to save some of that shiny new aluminum, you'll end up with some decent sized scrap pieces from cutting the ruddervators, ailerons and flaps (.032 I think) that you could use for some destructive testing. I had a big plastic bin into which I tossed all of my scrap pieces and scrapped parts from any aluminum cutting, and that bin became very handy for testing throughout the project.