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Based on my experience, there isn’t

Bryan Cotton wrote:Mine is totally dry! Of course I have yet to run it, or even put oil in it.

Karma time. I've addressed my oil pressure sender leak and it seems good after a couple short ground runs. I set the idle also.

The left side pushrod tubes are leaking. The right side are dry.

I think I'll buy some of those silicone seals and do the job when I do the first valve adjustment.

Bryan Cotton wrote:

Bryan Cotton wrote:Mine is totally dry! Of course I have yet to run it, or even put oil in it.

Karma time. I've addressed my oil pressure sender leak and it seems good after a couple short ground runs. I set the idle also.

The left side pushrod tubes are leaking. The right side are dry.

I think I'll buy some of those silicone seals and do the job when I do the first valve adjustment.

They make some nice two piece tubes so you don't have to unseat your head.

I had a pushrod tube issue (no leak, different problem) and went with the two-piece tubes. They were just enough larger in diameter to contact the super-tin and required clearancing of said tins. It would have been easier to loosen the head.

Though many report success - the two piece tubes are specifically listed as a "get you home" and not a permanent solution.

I make a point of really stretch/extending the "bellows" on the tubes, using brand spanking new soft seals and make sure the recesses on the head and case where the seals sit are scrupulously clean. As you torque the heads down - pay particular attention to the tube bellows "squishing" straight. You can flex them to a degree as you torque the head down to make sure they are straight. When I have had a weep after the head is torqued down - I've had some success with "springing" the bellows around a bit to seat them better.

YMMV

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Now if someone can find a way to get the main crank seal to stay tight...............

GraemeSmith wrote:Though many report success - the two piece tubes are specifically listed as a "get you home" and not a permanent solution.

As with most other VW components, there are varying degrees of quality among those parts. I've been running the 2-piece tubes on my car for 8 years now without a drop of oil peeking through the cracks.
It's a rather simplistic description of the adjustable tubes to call them 2-piece. Not counting the end seals, mine have 7 components each. Most issues with the 2-piece tubes lie with their mis-installation. I've seen them installed backward and with the seals improperly retained.

Just keep in mind that the heads on a 2180 are nearly a quarter of an inch further away from the case than a stock engine. As Graeme said "really stretch/extend" those bellows tubes.

Here are my current findings:
1) oil still reads full after lubing the belly skins. I may have overfilled it.
2) It's wet behind the oil cooler adapter. I think I want to redo those seals, or at least torque a bit more.
3) Very wet on the right side of the sump - either tubes or cylinder base. There are permatex streaks which would have come from the cylinders.
4) Top of oil filter is a little wet. I'm going to tighten it a bit.
5) Looks like a slight seep below the oil pump.

I've made observations on how much oil makes the belly a mess. 7 drops of oil (ok maybe not exactly) will make a huge mess. Just stuff coming out of the breather will make the belly messy yet not show down on the dipstick. On my AeroVee powered Fisher biplane, I routed the breather down the gear leg and stopped most of the mess. My Onex has the separator but a few drops still get by to keep the belly well lubed.

Scott Todd wrote:I've made observations on how much oil makes the belly a mess. 7 drops of oil (ok maybe not exactly) will make a huge mess. Just stuff coming out of the breather will make the belly messy yet not show down on the dipstick. On my AeroVee powered Fisher biplane, I routed the breather down the gear leg and stopped most of the mess. My Onex has the separator but a few drops still get by to keep the belly well lubed.

That's a great idea. I'm not sure how I would get the breather tube inside the LG fairing without an ugly, draggy joint at the back of the cowl but I wonder if a tube out the side of the cowl would be less of a mess - or would that just transfer the oil to the side?

I've got my Aerocarb out to adjust the mixture. For those of you who have followed my project, you will remember my complicated reversing linkages so I could use real aircraft throttle and mixture cables in the center position. They are all nicely lubricated.
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