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NWade wrote: Was curious if anyone had a different idea that was faster than waiting for the part to ship; but I guess I'll have to wait.

--Noel

I've removed my plunger once by taking a 1/2 inch wooden dowel, cutting out a notch in the tip of it with my band saw, then inserting a little wooden wedge into the new notch, as in this photo:

http://www.rynoth.com/wordpress/wp-cont ... x-2795.jpg

The dowel is just a little bit smaller than the inside diameter of the plunger, but when I tapped the other end of the dowel with a mallet, it pushed the wedge into the notch and expanded the dowel within the plunger, giving me a solid grip on the plunger, which I then removed.

http://www.rynoth.com/wordpress/wp-cont ... x-2803.jpg

Some version of this might work for you while you wait for the removal tool. I'm also still having high oil pressure (80+ psi) issues in my Turbo Aerovee and will be performing this procedure once again soon, in the search for a smoking gun.

Rynoth wrote:I've removed my plunger once by taking a 1/2 inch wooden dowel, cutting out a notch in the tip of it with my band saw, then inserting a little wooden wedge into the new notch, as in this photo:

http://www.rynoth.com/wordpress/wp-cont ... x-2795.jpg

The dowel is just a little bit smaller than the inside diameter of the plunger, but when I tapped the other end of the dowel with a mallet, it pushed the wedge into the notch and expanded the dowel within the plunger, giving me a solid grip on the plunger, which I then removed.

http://www.rynoth.com/wordpress/wp-cont ... x-2803.jpg

That's a great tip/trick that you shared there. Thanks!

8~)

Dale Williams
N319WF @ 6J2
Myunn - "daughter of Cleanex"
120 HP - 3.0 Corvair
Tail Wheel - Center Stick
Signature Finish 2200 Paint Job
171.9 hours / Status - Flying
Member # 109 - Florida Sonex Association
Latest video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1VP7UYEqQ-g

daleandee wrote:
That's a great tip/trick that you shared there. Thanks!

I'd claim full credit but I learned that tip from somebody on this forum years ago, I was too lazy to go find the original post to link here.

I blew a cooler in the air early on. They're weak. I installed a thermal bypass valve that won't allow
oil thru cooler until it hits 185 degrees. You can reduce the OP by putting a lighter spring in the rear
relief valve (by the flywheel). There are also variable adjusters made to go there.

RT

Update: Well, I might be screwed. Although I swear I tested this oil plunger for free movement inside the oil passage before installing it into the engine permanently, it is wedged up inside the passage _tight_. Cranking the engine and putting 120psi of oil pressure on it won't budge it. I bought a puller tool from CBP, but after using it for 2 hours all I managed to do was beat up my knuckles, swear a lot, scrape a lot of metal out of the inside of the plunger with the tool, and possibly mushroom the plunger with the tool. I got it to budge downward a small amount, but after being unable to move it any further over many attempts, I used a rubber mallet to tap it back upwards just a bit (to see if it would loosen, or in case it was cocked off at an angle and needed to straighten up) - and while it moved upwards a bit that also seems to have made it impossible for the plunger to move in _either_ direction now. I am totally stumped!

Open to ideas that don't mean pulling the engine off the airframe, tearing it down to its component parts, and possibly getting a new case half... *sigh*

--Noel

NWade wrote:Update: Well, I might be screwed. Although I swear I tested this oil plunger for free movement inside the oil passage before installing it into the engine permanently, it is wedged up inside the passage _tight_.

Open to ideas that don't mean pulling the engine off the airframe, tearing it down to its component parts, and possibly getting a new case half... *sigh*

Hi Noel,

A bit of a drastic approach but I've read where a small hole can be drilled into the plunger and a dent puller (slide hammer) is used to remove it.

FWIW,

Dale Williams
N319WF @ 6J2
Myunn - "daughter of Cleanex"
120 HP - 3.0 Corvair
Tail Wheel - Center Stick
Signature Finish 2200 Paint Job
171.9 hours / Status - Flying
Member # 109 - Florida Sonex Association
Latest video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1VP7UYEqQ-g

NWade wrote:Open to ideas that don't mean pulling the engine off the airframe, tearing it down to its component parts, and possibly getting a new case half... *sigh*

--Noel

I can't remember where I read this, but I believe a 1/4 NPT tap is just the right size to insert and bite into the bottom of the plunger, almost like a screw extraction tool, without scuffing up the gallery.

Those VW plunger extractors, while mine has worked well enough for me, they don't have a good interface to bear down and get a really tight grip on the plunger, especially when they have residual oil on them. I wonder if you could grind away part of the outer shaft to enable yourself to get a wrench on it before cranking on the handle.

My VW repair book (Bentley publications) recommends a 10mm tap into the plunger to remove them.

Area 51% wrote:My VW repair book (Bentley publications) recommends a 10mm tap into the plunger to remove them.

Hi curious about the Bentley manual. Could you provide the title? I googled Bentley VW and a list a mile long comes up. Thanks, sorry for jumping in...

The manual I have is the "Volkswagen official service manual". It covers the Beetle, Super Beetle, and Karmann Ghia from 1970-1979. It shows a Bentley stock number of V179 and a manufacturing code of V179-25.